London – Bonhams New Bond Street presented its anticipated London Jewels sale on 5 June 2025. The top lot was arguably one of the most enduring design legacies from Cartier, the Astor turquoise and diamond tiara, circa 1930, owned by Nancy, Viscountess Astor (1879-1964). The exceptionally rare tiara, having come from the collection of Nancy Astor, and by descent to the present owner, was seen on the market for the first time since it was sold to Lord Astor by Cartier London in 1930. Of Eastern inspiration, the spectacular tiara sold for £889,400 ($1,206,737), over three times its pre-sale estimate of £250,000-350,000.
The 104-lot sale featured a spectacular selection of jewellery spanning the centuries featuring coloured diamonds and fine coloured gemstones including sapphires, rubies and emeralds by coveted names of Boucheron, Bulgari, Buccellati, Cartier, Chaumet, Grima, Mauboussin, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Jean Ghika, Bonhams Global Head of Jewellery, commented: "London Jewels featured an impressive selection of jewellery, but undoubtedly, the star of the sale was the Astor turquoise and diamond tiara by Cartier, formerly in the collection of Nancy, Viscountess Astor. Set throughout with old brilliant, single, and rose-cut diamonds with distinctive plumes, leaves and scrolls carved in turquoise drawn from Egyptian, Indian and Persian motifs, Cartier has long been recognised as the name behind some of the world's most important jewels and the Astor turquoise and diamond tiara dates to a period when Cartier London were at the height of their creative prowess. The tiara hadn't been seen on the market since Lord Astor purchased it from Cartier in 1930, and we were honoured to have been entrusted to sell the jewel at auction for the first time in nearly a century. The saleroom saw bids from across the globe to achieve a strong result for the exceptional tiara with a hammer price over three times its pre-sale estimate."
Lord And Lady Astor At the premiere of "City Lights" at the Dominion Theatre in London with Charlie Chaplin and George Bernard Shaw, 1931© Keystone-France/Gamma-Keystone via Getty Images, wearing the Cartier Astor tiara
Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor was born Nancy Witcher Langhorne in Danville, Virginia. The American-born British politician became the first woman to take her seat in Parliament, serving from 1919 to 1945. In 1905, she moved to England and met the American-born, Waldorf Astor, 2nd Viscount Astor (1879-1952) on the same voyage across the Atlantic from America. After their wedding in 1906, the Astors moved into Cliveden, their lavish estate in Buckinghamshire – a wedding gift from Astor's father. Nancy Astor became renowned as a prominent hostess for Britain's social elite before advocating for temperance, welfare, education reform and women's rights in parliament.
Other notable London Jewels highlights included:
• A set of three exceptional antique diamond-set rose brooches, mid-19th century. Each brooch formed as a sculptural diamond-set budding rose amongst diamond set leaves, forming a floral spray, set throughout with antique cushion and rose-cut diamonds. The brooches sold for £305,200 more than six times its pre-sale estimate of £50,000-80,000.
• An emerald and diamond ring, circa 1930. The step-cut emerald, of Colombian origin, weighing 4.13 carats, set between stepped baguette-cut diamond shoulders, sold for £229,000, over seven times its pre-sale estimate of £30,000-50,000.
• A coloured diamond and diamond ring. The marquise-cut Fancy Intense Orangey Pink diamond, VSI clarity, weighing 2.01 carats, off-set with a smaller marquise-cut diamond, with shoulders pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and similarly-cut diamonds of pink tint, sold for £127,400 against a pre-sale estimate of £100,000-150,000.
• A Boodles diamond single stone ring, circa 2009. The brilliant-cut diamond weighing 9.12 carats, set between graduating brilliant-cut diamond shoulders, sold for £203,600, double its pre-sale estimate of £80,000-120,000.
Left: An emerald and diamond ring, circa 1930, sold for £229,000, Middle: A coloured diamond and diamond ring, sold for £127,400, Right: A Boodles diamond single stone ring, circa 2009, sold for £203,600
• A natural pearl and diamond necklace. The two strands of natural saltwater pearls graduating in size towards the centre, on an openwork lozenge-shaped clasp with floral, foliate and knifewire detail, set with old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, sold for £178,200 against a pre-sale estimate of £60,000-80,000.
• A pair of diamond chandelier earrings, each articulating drop cascading with a graduation of pear-cut diamonds, weighing 3.17 carats and 4.02 carats, the remaining diamonds weighing approximately 28.00 carats total. Sold for £76,600 against a pre-sale estimate of £40,000-60,000.
5 June 2025